Blog posts have moved!
General ECC news and updates (apart from club adminstration) is now at
www.alpineteam.co.nz (for NZAT news, new routes, gear reviews, and expedition reports)
www.iceandmixedfestival.co.nz (For Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival information, signups and news)
The NZAT has just finished its first 3 year mentoring cycle. As our new round of mentored climbers begin, we are announcing the requirements for future climbers to join the NZAT mentoring program (as a mentor).
New Zealand Alpine Team New Mentor Requirements
This list should be used as a rough guide to assess if someone has met the requirements for becoming a mentor of the New Zealand Alpine Team.
Alpine – 10 MC grade 6 (ED) routes or harder. Five of which should be winter ascents.
Rock – Sport climbing: clean redpoints of a grade 25 or harder sport climb. Traditional climbing: onsights of grade 23 or harder on fully traditional protected routes. A minimum of 10 clean ascents of grade 22 traditional protected routes.
Ice – 6 routes WI6 or harder.
Mixed – 10 multipitch mixed routes (traditional protection) M6 or harder.
Big Wall – 3 Yosemite grade 6 big wall routes.
Ski Touring – 10 MC grade 2 ski descents or multi day ski tours i.e more than two nights long ski touring trips on glaciated terrain.
General character – While this category is subjective, the general idea is that for people in positions as Team Mentors they should be at least 30 years old and have a good safety record in the mountains. We are looking for people who show a good understanding of the risks involved in teaching alpine climbing skills, demonstrate a good attitude and commitment to the Team and have made a significant volunteer contribution to both the club (Expedition Climbers Club) and the NZAT.
While the ideal candidate will have reached the required standard in all relevant disciplines above, we are still happy to receive applications from climbers who have reached the required standard in all but one of the above categories. Climbers applying to be a mentor for the NZAT need not have been part of the group previously. When submitting your application you must include a date and partner for all ascents and a reference from an existing Team mentor.
A personal statement as to why you wish to be part of the Team and a brief write up on how you can volunteer for the group should be included in your application. Once the NZAT Captain is satisfied with the quality of the application an applicant will be voted on by the current selection of team members. A minimum of six votes in favour or a 70% majority is required from existing Team Mentors before a new Mentor is admitted to the group.
Applications should be sent to nzalpineteam@gmail.com attn : Steve Fortune (NZAT Captain)
Remarkables Ice and Mixed Climbing Festival Awards
Macpac New Zealand Alpinist/s of the Year
Macpac Hardest New Route award
Awarded to the climber who, during the period of the festival, climbs the hardest first ascent or hardest first free ascent. Judges’ discretion will apply if several climbs of the same grade are sent by different climbers. Male and female categories apply.
Macpac Hardest Repeated Route award
For the climber who repeats the hardest existing route during the period of the festival. Male and female categories apply.
For both the Macpac Hardest New Route and Hardest Repeated Route awards the climbs must be sent during the official festival period, which is the Thursday, Friday and Saturday. However, an exception applies for any festival volunteer who is busy with volunteer duties during the three-day period. Ascents by those volunteers completed during the three days prior to the festival will be considered.
The judging panel for all awards is:
Kester Brown, Allan Uren, Craig Jefferies, and the winner of the previous year’s Macpac New Zealand Alpinist/s of the Year award.
The theory behind our membership classes for the club.
Several years ago, the NZAC debated at its AGM, and several articles were written about the “Death of NZ Alpinism” In effect during the 1990’s and into the 2000’s there was a slow decline in the general standard and participation in higher level alpine climbing by Kiwi climbers. Everything we have set up to date stems from this initial debate and the idea that Kiwi alpine climbing could never be what it once was.
The founders of our club simply did not agree with the “Death of NZ Alpinism” or where the status quo was taking us.
In order to effect change we could not continue with the status quo. We had to look at everything from funding of expeditions, the way climbers were interacting with each other, the structure of the established groups and the culture that promoted down to far wider ranging things like the lack of for example media coverage of climbing and how that impacted on sponsorship, funding for expeditions and new people coming into the sport.
Most of what we have done as a group i.e setting up the Expedition Capital Fund, Encouraging climbers to meet in a structured way i.e at an event, having competitions, setting up mentoring programmes etc have all been outside of what was the “norm” when we established them. We have proved however over the last few years that some of these ideas that initially people thought we were crazy to do really work for the community at large. No one believed we could get people together to freeze on the side of a mountain in winter. It was highly unlikely a winter meet would involve many people. From the first year the event was the largest gathering of climbers in the country and it continued to hold that position ever since. When the Ice and Mixed Festival was established many told us you wont get people volunteering any more those days are gone, they also told us when we established the Alpine Team no sponsors are interested in NZ climbing anymore etc
This different approach to the problem solving is where we are coming from with our membership classes. It is our belief and theory that in order for us to break the more or less apathy in the climbing community (with regards to active participation and helping others, not just climbing for themselves) we had to change the way people thought about their participation in things like climbing clubs.
Over the past few years by convincing the best in the country to come of their own free will, pay their own way, give up their time etc to teach we are starting to see a shift in what a top level climber sees as their place in the community i.e We believe their place is to share, inspire and interact not only with the other top climbers but the beginners. It is their job to ensure the person who comes up after them is stronger, more motivated and is prepared to give more volunteer effort than they did. This is the idea behind the Ordinary member of our club. What this leads to is new less experienced climbers also starting to feel that someone gave up their time and energy to help them. This feeling goes on in the future to have that new climber wanting to also give something back to repay the favor. It also builds the respect and trust that is the basis of a solid mountaineering partnership. We hope that one day when we are too old to get the rope up where we want to go, a young climber will give up a day and lead the climb for us. This cycle was being lost and it has taken a few years to help get it re started.
We wanted our ordinary members, the ones who give the most in terms of time and energy to have some status attached. One day we hope people will think of being in that class of membership with some degree of pride. In return we expect them to contribute a big degree of human capital to the club. We set their membership fees lower to reflect that they give more human capital to the group than other members.
Associates Members while similar in nature to Ordinary Members may not feel they can give as much or perhaps are not prepared to make a defined commitment to the club / community about what they will volunteer. We have many associates who still interact with the young members or less experienced. They share skills, participate in the ideas, come on the trips etc. But they don’t contribute as much human capital to the success of the group and as such we think they should show their commitment to the concept and club by paying a bit more. By separating them out it was our way of saying fine, you want to be in the group, but don’t want to be as active then you can help our finances by paying a bit more.
Training members follow the same line as associates. In sort when they join they have the least human capital to contribute to the club i.e. most of them don’t have the skills necessary to teach others, plan their own trips etc. They also have the most to gain by being able to connect with other members, be it for an evenings cragging, a weekend climb or to come to an organised event. However to get them to buy into the concept we feel that you have to have a cost. If that cost if not time and energy then it comes in the form of paying a bit more. By asking the trainee members to pay more they will hopefully work a bit harder to gain the skills required that they can move into the associate or ordinary member catagories.
As with all we have done this goes against the traditional thinking of many clubs in our field. i.e NZAC, CMC etc where you receive discounted membership for age i.e being young or old. For me this approach misses a key element in that we are not linking membership to the group with the idea of how you as a member are contributing to the success of the group. Being invested in a club is more than just paying membership. We want people to think about that pathway i.e Trainee , Associate, Ordinary member and think about how they can move along it. The more people who move along this path, the more skilled climbers we have, the more people likely to go on regular expeditions, the more expeditions that are likely to end in success and raise the standard of NZ climbing.
To achieve our goal of successful NZ expeditions once again being a regular feature on the world climbing scene, we have to try a different approach to what is currently not working. Success will come from an organisation strong in both the human resource ie the volunteering, the giving and the committed motivated members along with a strong balance sheet. Our various levels of membership be it in giving more time / energy or paying more money contribute to that goal.
The initial proof of this is the strong interest shown in the Peru expedition, the success of those taught through the NZ Alpine Team, the number of climbers who have meet new partners and consolidated climbing partnerships with their friends through coming each year to the Ice and Mixed Festival.
The thought that one day by working together, we can build a truly connected alpine climbing community, and in addition grow a capital fund that could completely fund a major annual NZ expedition is exciting. Having people invested in the idea either with their time or their money is the key to seeing this happen. By being part of this club you are part of that building process. You have contributed either your time or your cash and due to our long term focus your contribution will go on working for the group many years into the future.
The 2016 expedition to Peru is the first annual expedition of the Expedition Climbers Club. This expedition is also the first expedition to be supported by the Expedition Capital Fund. The Expedition Climbers Club is the organisation that runs the Remarkables Ice and Mixed Climbing Festival, which in turn provides all money raised at the event (via the Capital Fund Auction) to the clubs Expedition Capital Fund. The club also runs the mentoring program The NZ Alpine Team, summer and winter climbing meets and womans only trad climbing weekends. Members from the club and the NZAT are helping to organise this expedition.
To join this expedition you must be a member of the Expedition Climbers Club. In addition your climbing partner for the expedition must also be a current club member.
We have had 13 climbers join this expedition so far and registrations are now closed. Due to the large number of people we have had to come up with a fixed trip itenary. The departure dates, times we come and go from each valley are fixed. If for what ever reason you can not make for example the departure date from NZ you would not be able to join the expedition. An outline of the expedition can be found below. Many people will stay on in Peru after our planned part of the expedition is complete. For anyone who decides to stay you will be responsible for sorting out your own arrangements once the official expedition is over.
Costs. The following are estimates. Flights and Insurance $2300.00 -$2700.00, in country travel, food and lodging including base camp cooks, hostels, donkeys where required $2500.00 – $3000.00. All up we would expect the trip to cost people anywhere from $5000.00 – $6000.00 NZD.
The Expedition Capital Fund is providing a subsidy of $5000.00 NZD. This money goes directly towards the costs of the shared base camp facilities. Over a group of 20 odd people this will not mean a significant subsidy for any one person. However there will be many advantages of being on a expedition with such a large group of Kiwi climbers. The ability to meet and form new friendships with other Kiwi climbers, share knowledge about route conditions, enjoy being at a base camp with more than just one other person to talk to will be among some of the advantages of being on such a trip. It is also important to understand that successful expedition climbing often relies on making many trips over several years, often with the same group of climbers. By being on this expedition and meeting so many other like minded people, the chances of your future expedition climbing success will be increased.
A sign up sheet for this expedition will be available at the 2015 Remarkables Ice and Mixed Climbing Festival. Once you have signed up you will have approx 6 weeks to send in proof of your confirmed flight ticket. Only people who have provided confirmed flight ticket by Monday 28th of September 2015 will be able to join the expedition. We will also need to have received the confirmed ticket of your climbing partner. Please note that people who are not an ECC club member will not be able to join this trip. A deposit to cover in country costs will also due at the end of Aug 2015.
Departure date from NZ is Friday 27th May 2016. We will all fly from NZ and share a pre booked private bus direcct to Huaraz. If you are not in Lima in time for the bus ride to Huaraz or you miss any of the other connection times during the expedition you will be responsible for making your own travel arrangements. It is also important to know that when we have booked group transport you are responsible for your share of this cost regardless of whether you make the connection or not.
1º 27: Arrive Lima 16:00 .Transfer Airport-Huaraz overnight
2º 28:Huaraz.Albergue Andinista
3º 29: Aclimatation trek to Churup lake(4,485 m.) or Ahuac lake(4,580 m.).
4º 30: Hatun Machay rock climbing.Hut or Camping
5º 31: Hatun Machay rock climbing & return to Huaraz.Albergue Andinista
Day June
6º 1: Huaraz-Paron Lake & Valley.Transfer Huaraz-Paron.
7º 2: Paron Valley
8º 3: Paron Valley
9º 4: Paron Valley
10º 5: Paron Valley
11º 6: Paron Valley
12º 7: Paron Valley
13º 8: Paron Valley
14º 9: Paron Valley
15º 10: Paron Valley
16° 11: Paron-Huaraz.Transfer.Albergue Andinista
17° 12: Huaraz rest day
18° 13: Huaraz rest day
19° 14: Huaraz-Cashapampa transfer.Cashapampa-Llamacorral.
20° 15: Llamacorral-Taullipampa B.C.
21° 16: S.Cruz Valley
22° 17: S.Cruz Valley
23° 18: S.Cruz Valley
24° 19: S.Cruz Valley
25° 20: S.Cruz Valley
26° 21: S.Cruz Valley
27° 22: S.Cruz Valley
28° 23: S.Cruz Valley
29° 24: S.Cruz Valley
30° 25: S.Cruz Valley
31° 26: S.Cruz Valley
32° 27: S.Cruz Valley
33° 28: S.Cruz Valley
34° 29: Contingency day
35° 30: Contingency day
To build up a substantial sum of capital that generates enough income to fully fund one major New Zealand led climbing expedition per year.
Currently the bulk of the money raised for the Expedition Capital Fund is generated from the fund raising auction held during the Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival and donations from club members. This means that the people who support the festival each year and ECC Club members are the main contributors to the fund.
The Expedition Capital Fund is controlled and administered by the Expedition Climbers Club Incorporated.
A panel from the Expedition Climbers Club will select a location for the Expedition, or a particular climbing objective. This will not be only limited to climbing large scale climbing expeditions, but may also extend to training locations such as Yosemite, Canadian Rockies etc.
The Expedition will be run essentially as an overseas climbing camp where climbers can come together, share base camp resources/accommodation etc., and enjoy the benefits of climbing and socializing with a wider group of climbers. The minimum distribution from the Expedition Capital Fund will be $5,000.00 per year. The first year for a Expedition Capital Fund grant will be 2016. The 2016 Expedition Capital Fund expedition will be to Peru. The trip will start first week of June 2016 and run till mid July 2016. With money from the fund helping to pay for basecamp and transport to base camp for all the climbers attending.
The Expedition Climbers Club will select an Expedition objective each August and will advertise the location at that years Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival. Anyone who attends the festival (club membership is included with your registration), or a member of the Expedition Climbers Club will be eligible to join the Expedition. Each climber joining the Expedition must have their own climbing partner. As of 2015 the Ice and Mixed Festival will only be open to members of the ECC. Therefore by defualf the clubs annual expedition will be open to all club members and festival attendees.
People wishing to attend the annual Expedition will need to have made their confirmation by the end of September the same year that the Expedition is announced. i.e In August 2015 the Expedition location will be announced, and at the end of Sept 2015 the registration of interest will close. Confirmed flight tickets and base camp fee deposits will have to be paid before the end of September. From the group of applicants an Expedition leader will be selected who will act to coordinate the Expedition. The Expedition will run and be completed before the next years Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival. The 2016 Peru Expedition leaves NZ on Friday 29th May for approx 5 weeks.
Membership Classes
Associate Member
This class of membership is most suited for experienced climbers who might like to take part in regular club activities such as general climbing at the Remarkables Ice and Mixed Climbing Festival, come on the clubs annual expedition or take part in our summer and winter climbing meets. There is no climbing prerequisite for this class of membership and there is also no volunteering element for associate members. To apply please fill out the membership form by clicking on the following link.
Associate member cost is $80 per year. There are discounts for NZAC members.
Training Member
This class of membership is most suited for less experienced climbers who might like to be taught and mentored by fellow club members. For example anyone wishing to come along to the Remarkables Ice and Mixed Climbing Festival and participate in one of the clinics or join one of our club training weekends such as our Chicks Trad climbing weekend should join the club as a Training member. There is no climbing prerequisite for this class of membership and there is also no volunteering element for associate members. To apply please fill out the membership form by clicking on the following link. You simply choose the type of clinic you wish be instructed in and the clinic form doubles as your membership form.
Click here to join the Expedition Climbers Club as a Training Member.
Please remember that all clinics, club meets and other events have limited places. While all club events are free for members they are on a first come first served basis.
Training membership costs approx $160 per year however some clinics offered by the club such as the Adventure Consultants Chicks N Picks have an addition charge to help cover event running costs. There are discounts for NZAC members.
Ordinary, Life and Honorary Members
Members in this class must have climbed at least five alpine climbs above the Mount Cook (MC) grade 2. In addition they must offer back to the club a volunteer service each year. For example, leading club trips, instructing at the clubs annual meets like the Remarkables Ice and Mixed Climbing Festival, mentoring as part of the clubs training programme or some other volunteer service for the club. To join as an Ordinary member you must apply and be approved by the club committee. To apply please click on the following link.
Apply for membership to the Expedition Climbers Club as an Ordinary Member
From the Expedition Climbers Club Constitution